Death Valley, July 23, 2006

Death by degrees

 

Baker to Big Pine, July 23, 2006

 

124 degrees Fahrenheit is not a temperature it is a state of body.

 

I know, I know, California is having the worst heat wave in 57 years. The news says it is so; so it must be true. Naturally the same news outlets indicate that all this heat is due to “global warming” and we should break out the permanent sun block since this is the way of the future. Apparently global warming has been with us for a very long time, many of the highest temperatures ever recorded in California took place the summers of 1906, 1909, 1913 and 1949.

 

I wanted to experience real, true, natural, oppressive heat for myself. Seeing the news reports just has not been enough for me. So, I made a promise to myself, earlier this summer; when the heat in Death Valley is predicted to exceed 120F then I would make my first summer visit to the valley of death and see for myself.

 

Linda said I was proving to be the dumbest husband she has ever had. I pointed out that the life insurance is all paid up. She pointed out that she preferred me over money. (I thought that was very nice) Mark said he would prefer to drive north to the Eel River for a day of river swimming but if I insisted on this adventure he would accompany me. And so we were off, off our rockers and off to Death Valley.  By all accounts our timing was just about perfect. We hit the peak of the heat wave and yes, we experienced 124F, 125F and possibly 126 degree Fahrenheit.

 

The search for heat

 

The journey was a simple one really; just drive down the San Joaquin Valley through Bakersfield. Drive up over Tehachapi pass to Mohave and then turn East to Barstow and then Baker (aptly named) to then turn north straight through Death Valley, Eureka Valley and then over the Inyo Mountains to Big Pine, California.

 

We arrived at Baker on Highway 15 at 11 p.m. It was only 103F. We then drove north on Highway 127 to the Harry Wade Rd turn off. This is the actual southern end of Death Valley and the start of a dirt road entrance that follows the Amargosa River (dry) North into the valley. We were fully prepared for traveling alone in the heat. The Pathfinder was packed with 10 gallons of water, shovels, tarps, rope, tow straps, blankets and an ice chest packed with ice, water and caffeine. What could possibly go wrong? We camped for the night just out side the national park boundary. This was important since camping under BLM rules is easier then under national park rules. Inside the park you cannot camp right next to the road and you cannot drive your vehicle down a wash looking for a campsite, we did both. Since we were driving into the valley, naturally the heat began to increase, by the time we found our campsite wash at midnight it was 108F.

 

I tossed out a tarp, a couple pads and a blanket to keep us off the pads and we tried to sleep. Between the heat, marauding stink bugs (their scratching makes you think of desert scorpions when you are half awake) and no breeze, there was little rest. Mark got so hot at 2 a.m. that he climbed back in the Pathfinder and ran the air conditioner for a while. By 6 a.m. it had cooled to about 99F and the sun was up. Rise and shine, it was bound to be an interesting day.

 

The goal for the day was, “experience the day.” Don’t just drive through the valley with the A/C on all day. I scheduled in four stops: Saratoga Springs, Badwater, Furnace Creek and Salt Creek. Sadly, each location has a name associated with water, disappointment  was sure to follow.

 

Saratoga Springs:

Just inside the southern end of Death Valley National Park. Six acres of water that could actually be a drinking source in a pinch, bring your own filter. This area is full of old mining activity so we drove up Ibex Pass into a talc mining area. After passing huge warning signs on the road like, “high clearance, 4X4 recommended” and “deep soft sand next 4 miles” we got stuck in the sand while Mark was driving. He had been driving for miles and doing great. He hit a deep sand patch going to slow and spun out. Well, I take all the blame. I had not put it in four wheel drive yet. I locked the hubs and backed out of the sand to solid earth before hitting it again with speed and power. Yep, them signs were telling the truth. No moisture in the sand and it seemed bottomless in places but we did OK and moved on. Temperature up to about 110F.

 

Badwater:

Lowest spot below sea level in North America, –282 feet. The elevation sign is right next to the parking lot; even I thought that was the lowest spot, right next to the sign. Turns out it is several miles west across the salt flat. So we decided to go for a walk. Not too far, just out past all the other foot prints and then, just a bit further, just to say we did it. No problem walking out there, icy bottle of water in hand, steady focus and goal. I even had a small thermometer with me for checking on just how stupid we were. Right now the stupid meter was at 114F. We walked passed all the other idiots. Took a group picture for a grandfather, father, son group (is this a guy thing?). Then just a bit further. Now turn around and look back at the parking lot, oh my, the car seems awfully small from here. It seems we had walked out about 3/4 of a mile. Ran out of water on the way back. Early on the way back. Popped a sweat like I have never experienced before. Back in the car, new ice water, A/C on high, all is well. Temperature up to about 115F.

 

Furnace Creek:

12:30 p.m. This is park headquarters, water, fuel, gift shop and $10 vegeburgers. Two sodas, two burgers, one onion rings, $38, they figure and include the tip for you! How nice. After looking at $18 tee shirts and “native Indian” crafts probably made in Mexico it was time to keep moving. But no, the parking lots were full of vans and RV’s covered with signs like, “caution, runner ahead” or “watch for slow runners”(that about says it all for me…). The next day, July 24, 2006 was the start of the Badwater 135. www.badwaterultra.com. This is when ultra marathon runners from all over the world gather to “run” from Badwater to Whitney Portal, the end of the road at over 8,000 feet in the Sierra Nevada’s. See, there is dumb and there is truly insane. (the winner this year ran the 135 miles in just under 26 hours) Temperature, about 121F.

 

Salt Creek:

2:00 p.m. The temperature is now 124/125F “in the shade” as they say. No shade in this parking lot but it is time for the final hike of the day. There is a boardwalk here for walking a half-mile loop across the delicate swampy habitat of the lowly Salt Creek Pupfish. But, no swamp, no water, no fish. Apparently the fish spend the summer in a deeper pool further upstream. But no matter, we shall die right here. We walked the entire loop, ran out of water again, popped a red faced sweat with moisture pouring out of our bodies, dripping arms, neck, forehead. Breathing means pulling 125F pre-heated air into the lungs and it feels heavy, oppressive and to me… emotional. Not scared, but nervous, apprehensive, uncertain and a bit fearful. The feelings mounted in intensity as we walked. The path curved into a barren wash and the surrounding hills were completely white and chalk colored. No life in sight, no other fools either. Back to the car. Mark got overheated this time. Nothing serious, but a nervous overheated flush that lasted for miles as we drove north.

 

Just before Hwy 267 reaches Scotty’s Castle we turned north onto Death Valley Rd. This is the dirt road exit out the “top” of Death Valley. Driving north, alone again, on the road to Crankshaft Junction, we gradually climbed to nearly 3,000 feet and the temperature dropped to only 103F. Then we dropped down into Eureka Valley (still in the park and home to the tallest sand dunes in the United States) crossed the Inyo Mountains and dropped into the Owens Valley and Big Pine, California. 

 

260 miles from Baker to Big Pine.