We arrived at midnight. The night had cooled as we drove north from Baker, California; it was now only 108F.
Mark and I were on a journey of discovery and research; just what was hiking like in Death Valley, in July? And was there natural water available? Our destination was Saratoga Springs, just inside the southern edge of Death Valley National Park.
Saratoga Springs is a mixed alkali habitat spring with three ponds. Over six acres of shallow ponds are surrounded by bulrushes, reeds and a generous outer ring of saltgrass. The springs flow at over 70 gallons per minute and the water is naturally high in fluoride, boron, chlorides and sulfates. While generally this spring does not emit the classic “rotten egg” smell associated with excess sulfates the water does have a classic desert odor and must be filtered through a ceramic filter before use. Even after filtering the water will maintain a taste associated with desert springs, but it will be potable.
We spread our sleeping pads next to the Pathfinder on a sandy wash shelf about a foot above the floor of a shallow wash nearly five miles from the springs. While it is never wise to sleep on the bottom level of any desert wash I felt the minimal elevation we had would protect us in the event of flash floods from the Confidence Hills of the Avawatz Mountains during the night. The night was still, stifling, hot and apparently perfect for wandering stink beetles (Eleodes sp.) that wandered onto my pad throughout the hours till dawn. Twice they scratched at my bare back and woke me to unfounded fears of desert hairy scorpions.
Sunrise cleared the Salt Spring Hills about 6 AM and the air had chilled to an almost tolerable 99F. Breakfast was a simple affair of “cold” truck-stop coffee and muffins with bananas. We drove the remaining miles to the springs while watching the sandy washes for morning creatures. It was quiet, nothing but zebra lizards and small swarms of flying ants were encountered. After parking we prepared to hike north around the springs to the old mines nearby and then further north and east to the base of “old Ibex pass”. The length of the hike would depend on temperature rise and related courage levels.
Historically, Saratoga Springs figured prominently in the route of the famous “twenty mule teams” of Death Valley used by the Harmony Borax Works to haul partially refined borax from Death Valley to the train railhead in Mohave, California. From 1883 to 1888 these teams (usually consisting of 18 mules and two horses) hauled massive dual freight wagons plus a water tender the 165 miles to Mohave over a Chinese laborer built road that crossed salt flats and followed dry river bottoms before climbing several passes in the mountains guarding the southern valley entrance. Wagon teams regularly camped near the springs and there is an old stone foundation and walls near the east side of the springs that may date from this era. The springs were also the location for the murder of a teamster during this period. Stories vary but generally agree that a two-man wagon team quarrel ended with a desert murder and hasty burial near the springs. Later, the unfortunate teamster was dug up as part of the ensuing murder trial and re-buried with more dignity at a different location.
As Mark and I approached the small ponds in the early morning the level of bird life was impressive. With temperatures climbing rapidly we were greeted with the lifting of a small flock of mallards, one great blue heron, a common egret and at least one cormorant. Without binoculars I was unable to identify the cormorant but the double-crested cormorant is listed on the birding field list for Death Valley as “rare”. In addition there were killdeer and doves and a lone red tailed hawk drifted above the water. As we moved off toward the nearby mining activity to the east the mallards circled and landed and life returned to normal.
While the ponds contain the Saratoga pupfish we did not see any fish activity. Each of the pupfish populations in Death Valley has been isolated for so long as to be considered a separate species. The Saratoga pupfish is found only here and while it is maintaining a healthy breeding population it is considered at risk since it exists in no other location. Each of the Death Valley Pupfish (Cyprinodon salinus) subspecies is located in small critical habitats but none is more endangered then the Devil’s Hole Pupfish (Cyprinodon diabolis) located in one small sinkhole spring 37 miles east of Death Valley proper in Nevada.
After passing the old talc mining works the trail fades away and the hiking is cross-country as the hills to the east curve into a divide called Old Ibex Pass. Our desire to continue up the pass and then return down the south side past Ibex dunes and thus returning to the Pathfinder dwindled with our water. The air temperature had already climbed back to 108F and it was increasing at more then one degree per hour. The climb over the pass would have to wait for another day.
As we retraced our steps we were both pleased. The hiking was pleasant, the local water would do in a pinch and there was still plenty of day left for additional discoveries.
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